A Letter from the Editor:
Thank you for opening this email despite the ongoing nightmares of our realities. I hope these guides provide you moments of escape. For those not aware, I am newly based in Minneapolis, Minnesota. I thought winter was going to be all that I had to worry about surviving but here we are.
Nicole’s guide is one I couldn’t wait to make happen, I’ve been obsessing over Ajijic every time she shares the photographs from her annual trips. Nicole is an incredibly talented photographer, superior gardener and even makes wonderful hand-dyed pieces and I feel her spirit is in part because of Ajijic’s importance in her life. Sharing this with you, means I trust that you’ll cherish this place, and tell only who may need to know about it (but not everyone).
Mexico (and Canada) should be a pre-requisite travel destination for all of us in the U.S. before venturing further abroad. If there is ever a moment to consider getting to know our neighbors, it’s now. The country offers a vast geography from coastlines, mountains to deserts and world class cities full of rich culture dripping in beauty. Ajijic is a small part but oh, does it seem like the perfect place for some peaceful respite!
x mariah
CHECK-IN
👋 Nicole Mlakar
🎂 Gen X
💼 Photographer
♍️ Libra
Hey there!
You’re reading been — a people-centered, culturally focused newsletter about the places we've been. Every issue brings interviews with interesting people and their takes on a destination they know well. Let’s go.
THE INTERVIEW
Favorite Travel-related Experience:
Going to Ajijic, MX for the first time and seeing my uncle and grandmother at the Guadalajara International Airport with balloons.
Where are you a local?
Central Texas but Ajijic, MX feels like a second home to me.
How do you approach travel planning?
I typically plan my trips around the rainy season which is a beautiful time to visit. The rain and overcast days keeps the temps cool so I can spend a lot of time outdoors.
What do you prioritize?
I prioritize taking in the area like a local with an emphasis on daily bike riding, walking and enjoying a slower pace of life.
How do you know Ajijic so well?
My maternal uncle retired there about 20 years ago. He traveled all over and decided it was his favorite place to be with the most temperate year-round weather. After my mother passed in 2014, he moved my grandmother there. I visited for the first time thereafter and have been back off and on since 2015.
Destination Download
Describe Ajijic to people who haven’t been.
It's an easy-going little lakeside town in the state of Jalisco in Mexico with mountain views and loads of charm.
It’s pronounced, Ah-he-hee-ik.
Most overhyped tourist trap?
Ajijic is pretty small and not a huge commercial draw for tourists.
What is worth the hype?
The Malécon with its views of Lake Chapala and the Sierra Madre mountains is well thought out and wonderful for daily respite.
Any cool history there?
Ajijic or Axixic is a native Nahua word which roughly translates to "the place where the water springs forth." Nahua and other Nomadic people migrated over 10,000 years ago. Huichol Indians still live across the lake in mountain towns.
Something unexpected?
It has become a significant spot to retire for ex-pats from all over the world. But overcrowding has become a recent issue with more ex-pats looking to retire in this quiet and idyllic area.
What about Ajijic exceeds your expectations?
Mazamitla. It's a magical mountain town about an hour and half from Ajijic. The elevation is similar to Taos, New Mexico. There were dense pine forests, little snow chalets and it all looked like it belonged in a Switzerland postcard. It was a very surreal experience and I had no idea what to expect. This was also the first time I saw the flying Voladores!!
How did you get around?
Ajijic is a fairly small town. I walk a lot and when I want to go to another town nearby, like Chapala or San Juan Cosalá, I will rent an e-bike.
What packed outfit did you end up loving the most?
I am a chronic overpacker and I try to prioritize packing for the weather. For Ajijic, this means a packable rain jacket, Dr. Martens boots and tennis shoes for long daily walks. The rain can come out of nowhere so when you are prepared you can keep exploring without missing a beat.
Favorite meal?
Steaks at Tango.
Best way to spend an afternoon?
The thermal hot spring spas in nearby San Juan Cosalá! Plus, I would definitely see the Cascadas de Agua. The waterfalls are a huge draw in Ajijic and I somehow have yet to see them!
ITINERARY
Go for?
For me - it's always Nature first. Followed up with history and culture.
Top 3 Neighborhoods?
Ajijic, Chapala, Jocotepec
Breakfast?
Eggs Benedict at The Lake Chapala Society's Café Corazón
Lunch?
Literally anything at Viva Mexico in San Juan Cosalá
Dinner?
Happy Hour or After Hours?
I prefer the margaritas at my uncle's house!
A little shop to love?
Diane Pearl near Chapala.
POIs
Restaurants and Bars:
Los Gringos Cafe for a fun dining experience that overlooks the Plaza.
Cafe Black/White for Coffee - a great place to write and watch the street dogs play in the Plaza
Viva Mexico in San Juan Cosolá for authentically delicious food.
Sights Worth Seeing:
Malécon along Lake Chapala in Ajijic.
Panteón Municipal de Ajijic - beautiful Ajijic cemetery that celebrates and reveres lost loved ones.
The Lake Chapala Society - beautiful community center with well maintained gardens and a rich history.
Editor’s Accommodation Recs:
My sharp eye for interior spaces, quiet luxury, and superior service hasn’t failed me yet. Even when I haven’t been, take my word for it.
Casa Aurora - This spot lives rent free after finding via maps last year. This bohemian bed and breakfast seems like the place where you can heal and create your next great masterpiece. Currently looking for friends who’d want to do a buy out for a long weekend or a creative retreat of sorts!
This boutique hotel without a name seems entirely too promising. The architectural details of the build are enchanting and the calming interiors may be the perfect spot to exhale for a bit.
Located 25 miles down the lake from Ajijic in Chantepec but likely worth it! This owner also rents a larger home with similar vibes but this Tiny Home feels just right. If you need me, I may be here.
CHECK-OUT
Recommended Souvenir?
Gifts from the Wednesday Tiangues (flea market) in Ajijic.
Where are you planning to go next?
At the moment I'm hoping to plan a trip back to Santa Fe and Taos in New Mexico.
Carry-on or checked bag?
Both!